Chef Recipe Newsletter: Chef Russell Cronkhite: A Return to Family Picnics  

Volume 8, Issue 098 - May 18, 2005

Hello Recipe Club,

Following a format similar to his first widely acclaimed book, A RETURN TO FAMILY PICNICS contains beautifully nostalgic four-color photographs, poignant anecdotes, and easy-to-follow "Do-Ahead" tips. Recipes include Cheddar Cumin Crisps, Driftwood Grilled Lobster, Spiced Summer Peaches, Light-as-a-Feather Angel Biscuits, Chilled Poached Salmon with Caper-Chive Mayonnaise, and Forest Mushroom Salad.

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Asparagus Vinaigrette

Tender asparagus seem like they were made to accompany salmon - why else would we serve then together so often? Chilled asparagus, lightly dressed, have the best flavor.

Makes 12 servings

Ingredients:

3 pounds fresh asparagus spears
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon minced shallots
1/2 cup vegetable oil
salt to taste

Preparation:

First, cut the woody ends from the asparagus and, for a decorative look, carefully peel about 1 inch of the cut ends with a vegetable peeler. Drop the asparagus into a shallow pan filled with boiling salted water. Allow them to cook for 3 to 4 minutes, then immediately plunge them into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. Drain the spears after 2 minutes and dry thoroughly. You can blanch the asparagus spears up to 2 days ahead and refrigerate them in a well-sealed container.

Second, combine the sugar and vinegar in a small saucepan; whisk over medium heat to dissolve the sugar. Add in the mustard and shallots and simmer for 1 minute. Then whisk in the vegetable oil. Remove the pan from heat and cool the vinaigrette to room temperature.

Third, add salt to taste and pour the vinaigrette over the chilled blanched asparagus, then cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator. Allow the spears to marinate in the vinaigrette for 2 to 4 hours. Before serving, arrange the asparagus on a platter and pour the vinaigrette over the top.

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Chilled Poached Salmon with Caper-Chive Mayonnaise

Salmon is an excellent choice for poaching ahead of time, because the rich oils help the meat stay moist and full of flavor. Shallow-poaching fish in the oven is even easier than on the stovetop, making this elegant buffet a snap for the hostess. It is delightful served during a mix-and-mingle celebration for extended family.

Makes 12 servings

Ingredients:

Poached Salmon:

twelve 4-ounce fresh salmon fillets
vegetable oil
salt to taste
12 small sprigs fresh dill
1 rib celery, thinly sliced
1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
6 whole white peppercorns
1 cup white wine

Caper-Chive Mayonnaise:

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons tarragon vinegar
2 cups mayonnaise
1/4 cup chopped capers
1/4 cup snipped chives
pinch of sugar
pinch of salt

Garnish:

2 heads Bibb or butter lettuce
2 lemons, thinly sliced or cut in wedges
additional sprigs of fresh dill

Preparation:

Adjust the baking rack to the middle of the oven and preheat to 325 degrees F.

Poach the Salmon:

First, lightly oil a shallow ceramic baking dish that is large enough to hold all of the salmon fillets with space between (if necessary, the salmon may be poached in two batches). Season the fillets with a little salt and place them in the bottom of the dish. Place one sprig of dill on top of each fillet and scatter the sliced celery, sliced leek, bay leaf and peppercorns between them. Pour in the white wine.

Second, tightly cover the dish with nonstick aluminum foil, or with heat-resistant plastic wrap followed by a layer of aluminum foil. Bake the salmon for 20 to 25 minutes. The top of the foil will puff up as the salmon fillets cook.

Third, remove the salmon from the oven and insert a thermometer into the thickest part of one of the fillets. The temperature should register between 130 degrees F and 135 degrees F for fully cooked, moist salmon. At this point, peel the foil and plastic wrap back halfway and cool the salmon to room temperature; then reseal the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator and return to room temperature before serving, about 20 minutes.

Prepare the Caper-Chive Mayonnaise:

Combine the lemon juice, mustard and vinegar in a small bowl; add the mayonnaise and whisk together thoroughly. Fold in the capers and chives, then season to taste with a pinch of sugar and salt.

Present the Salmon:

Rinse the lettuce leaves and pat dry, then place on a chilled platter and arrange the salmon fillets over. Garnish with lemon slices and fresh sprigs of dill; serve the mayonnaise on the side.

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Dilled Spring Potato Salad

I love this light, springtime potato salad. The sour cream creates a wonderful tang and the addition of a little vinegar and salt gives it that extra zip that helps to bring out the fresh dill flavor.

Makes 12 servings

Ingredients:

2 pounds new white potatoes
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup thinly sliced celery
2 tablespoons fresh chopped dill
1/2 cup sliced green onions
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 cup sour cream
1 cup mayonnaise, as needed

Preparation:

First, cook the potatoes in a large pan of lightly boiling, salted water until they can be pierced with a thin paring knife (they will continue cooking as they cool in their jackets). Drain well, return to the pan and let cool to room temperature.

Second, peel the cooled potatoes and slice 1/4 inch thick into a glass or stainless mixing bowl. Sprinkle with the cider vinegar and season with salt and pepper, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Third, toss the potatoes with the celery, dill, green onions and mustard. Fold in the sour cream and then add in enough of the mayonnaise to bind the salad together.

Note:

The potatoes may absorb some of the moisture if you prepare the salad ahead of time. You may want to add a little extra mayonnaise as needed just before serving.

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Nectarine and Jumble Berry Shortcake

Shortcakes are a true all-American summer treat. They are scrumptiously sweet, oh-so-satisfying and simply refreshing! And as if that were not enough, they are also an easy-to-pack dessert perfect for any picnic. Simply make the cakes ahead of time, seal in plastic wrap, bring along the cream and assemble everything at the last minute for a wonderful dessert everyone will love!

Makes 8 servings

Ingredients:

Shortcake:

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
2/3 cup heavy cream

Shortcake Filling:

4 cups sliced yellow and white nectarines
4 cups assorted berries, such as blackberries, marionberries, boysenberries and raspberries
granulated sugar to sweeten
4 cups sweetened whipped cream

Preparation:

Adjust the baking rack to the center of the oven and preheat to 450 degrees F.

Make the Shortcake:

First, sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a mixing bowl.

Second, slice the butter into 1-inch pieces and scatter over the top of the flour mixture; sprinkle in the sugar. Cut the ingredients together with a pastry cutter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbly meal.

Third, whisk together the egg and cream in a separate small bowl. Pour into the flour mixture and stir with a wooden spoon just until the dough comes together; it should resemble moist slightly sticky biscuit dough. Turn out onto a clean, lightly floured surface and knead gently until smooth, about 1 minute.

Fourth, transfer the dough to a greased 8 inch round cake pan; brush the top with a little heavy cream and sprinkle with a little granulated sugar. Bake until golden, 15 to 18 minutes. Cool completely before turning out onto a clean dry surface.

Prepare the Fruit:

Combine the nectarines and assorted berries in a large bowl; toss together with a little granulated sugar. Let rest at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes, which will allow the fruit to sweeten and will draw out the juices.

Assemble the Shortcake:

Use a thin serrated knife to split the shortcake horizontally in half. Place the bottom layer on a dessert plate and spread with a little butter (to keep the bottom from becoming soggy). Spoon half of the fruit mixture over, drizzle with half of the accumulated juices and follow with mounds of whipped cream. Spoon the remaining fruit over the whipped cream, drizzle with the remaining juices and cover with the top layer of shortcake. 

Cut into eight equal wedges. If desired, garnish each serving with rosettes of whipped cream and additional fresh berries.

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