Chef Recipe Club: The Timeless Art of Italian Cuisine
The Timeless Art of
Italian Cuisine


Centuries of
Scrumptious Dining


 : The Timeless Art of Italian Cuisine

Our Price: $25.00

Chef2Chef Recipe Club - Volume 5 Issue 122 - December 16, 2003
Chef2Chef Recipe Club Member Forum: http://forums.chef2chef.net
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Hello Recipe Club,

The Land of City states - The food of Northern Italy

Almost anywhere you travel in Italy north of Rome, in the hill towns and the larger cities of the plains, you can observe fortifications or natural defenses: The towns show a high sophistication in their palaces and art, but battlements, and towers convey the impression of a long history of urban conflicts

To understand how these cities, known as the Comuni evolved, we must go back to Roman times. In those times the law prevented cities from building fortifications because the legions were enough to protect everyone from external violence. With the defeat of the Roman armies, the barbarians were able to swarm through the Italian territory almost without resistance. The cities were sacked, and the survivors took refuge in the most remote areas of the countryside. We have many accounts of long periods of famine, and scarcity of food is believed to have been the norm for centuries

The Romans despised the "inferior" barbaric culture, but as the barbarians seized power, they imposed their laws on the land they occupied. These new rulers had different customs and eating habits. The Roman ideology considered uncultivated land insignificant, if not negative. Yet the Germanic populations lived in symbiosis with wild land and forests, where through stock raising, hunting, fishing, and gathering they received most of their food resources. The culture of bread, wine, and olive collided with that of meat, milk, and butter.

After 1000 A.D., with the end of the barbaric invasions, the people of Italy began returning to the cities. A widespread increase in population occurred, boosting agriculture, manufacture, commerce, and creating important new harbors such as Venice and Genoa. A new political entity was being created: the Italian Comuni. The towns of northern and central Italy organized themselves into autonomous city republics, while the empire and the church had too little power to oppose them. Hostilities were frequent, making fortifications necessary.

We don't know very much about cooking during medieval times other than what has reached us through a few manuscripts. The cooking of the poor has not been documented; but. The table of the wealthy would not change much in times of famine, while common people would have to resign themselves to a table of food inferior to that normally eaten.

Later in time, most of the towns coalesced into larger Signorie (princedoms) that would acquire enormous power and wealth. The wealth of the Italian Signori of the Renaissance is legendary. The Scaligeri in Verona, the Sforza in Milan, the Medici in Florence, the Este in Ferrara are still remembered for the splendor of their palaces, their endorsement of the arts, and the magnificence of their banquets. Walking through the streets of Venice today, you would still see the opulence and power of this city. Venice, with the largest fleet of the Mediterranean, monopolized the commerce with the East. Venetian merchants would buy the spices and the silks of the Orient, and they would sell them for an immense profit all over Europe.

The fortune of Italian cities remained unchanged until the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Empire and the discovery of America. By then the interest of world commerce had moved from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. The strategic importance of Italy diminished: The Italian cities could not compete with the larger states and soon became lands of conquest for foreign powers, which would maintain control in different parts of Italy until the unification in 1862.

At the same time, many unique food ingredients and original cooking techniques were developed and preserved in northern Italy, and they remain very popular all over the world today. A few examples: red radicchio from Treviso, balsamic vinegar from Modena, Parmigiano Reggiano from the Emilia region, prosciutto from Friuli, pesto from Liguria, and tortellini from Bologna. Every region developed particular qualities depending on the history and geographical location.

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Risi e Bisi

Rice-and-Pea soup

Peas have been cultivated on the hills and fields of Veneto for centuries. This ancient dish from the Serenissima (most serene) Republic of Venice was ritually offered to the doge, the ruler of the city, on the day celebrating Saint Mark. It is popular in all the regions that were in contact with or subject to Venice, including Dalmatia and Greece.

2 oz (60 gr.) butter
2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 oz (115 gr.) bacon, finely diced
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 oz (115 gr.) small peas
8 cups (approximately 2 liters) broth
11 oz (300 gr) arborio or vialone rice
Salt and pepper
4-5 tablespoons parmigiano reggiano cheese, freshly grated
1 tablespoon Italian parsley, finely chopped

In a saucepan, put the butter, olive oil, bacon and onion. Turn heat to medium.

When the onion becomes soft and the bacon is cooked, add peas, 4-5 tablespoons of broth, stir and cover. Cook for about 5-10 minutes.

Add the rest of the broth and bring the mixture to a boil.

Add rice and cook for about 20 minutes.

When the rice is al dente (firm but not too soft or overcooked), and the soup has a dense consistency, taste and add salt if necessary. Add pepper, parmigiano cheese, and parsley.

Stir briefly and serve warm.

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Risotto alla Milanese

Saffron risotto

For many people in Milan, Risotto remains the most important dish. Saffron is the key ingredient of this dish and gives the traditional flavor and color (the word "saffron" comes from the Arabic word for "yellow").

5 cups (approximately 1 liter) broth
1/4 teaspoon saffron powder
3 + 2 tablespoons (45 + 30 gr.) butter
1 medium onion, very finely chopped
1-1/2 cups (300 gr.) arborio rice
1/2 cup (120 cc) dry white wine
Salt and pepper
4 oz (115 gr.) parmigiano reggiano cheese, freshly grated

Warm the broth to a simmer.

In a small bowl, dissolve the saffron in 1/2 cup (120 c) broth and put this to the side.

In a large saucepan, put 3 tablespoons (45 gr.) of the butter and turn heat to medium.

When the butter begins foaming, add the onion. Sauté and stir with a wooden spoon for a few minutes until the onion becomes soft.

Add the rice; stir for about 2 minutes; add the wine and stir to evaporate it.

Add 1/4 cup (60 cc) broth, and salt and pepper. Stir continuously to prevent the rice from sticking. When the rice begins absorbing the liquid, add more broth.

Repeat this step of adding the broth and stirring, keeping the rice at the consistency of a dense paste.

After about 10 minutes, stir in the 1/2 cup (120 cc) broth that has the dissolved saffron.
After about 8 more minutes, add 2 tablespoons (30 gr.) butter and the grated parmigiano cheese. Continue stirring and adding broth.

The rice will be ready in about 2 more minutes, when al dente, (firm but not too soft or overcooked). Cooking time may vary. Serve warm.

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Salsa Verde

Green sauce

This simple and tasty sauce can be used on either boiled meat or fish. When using green sauce on fish, substitute lemon juice to vinegar.

1/2 lb. (225 gr.) bread crumbs
1/2 cup (120 cc) meat broth
2 eggs, hard-boiled
6 anchovy fillets
3 tablespoons pine nuts
1/2 lb. (225 gr.) Italian parsley
1 oz (30 gr.) capers in salt, rinsed and drained
2 garlic cloves
1-2 tablespoons (depending on the strength) white wine vinegar
1/2 cup (120 cc) extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

Soak the bread crumbs lightly in broth, and squeeze them to remove the excess liquid.

Chop the eggs, anchovies, pine nuts, parsley, capers and garlic, by hand or in a food processor finely together.

Add the lemon juice, and extra-virgin olive oil.

Combine enough bread crumbs to give the sauce the consistency of a dense paste.

Add salt and pepper, and stir thoroughly to combine all the ingredients.

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