Chef Guide for Chefs: A Virtual Tour of Italy
Chef2Chef Recipe Club - Volume 4 Issue 83 - April 23, 2003
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Hello Recipe Club,

I've had many comments on our Recipe Club this week, all of them good. I had one question from a member about the Marsala wine in Chef Giovanni's recipes. She wanted to know if he used a sweet or a dry Marsala and if it would make a difference in the end product. Good question, so I asked Chef Giovanni and he said this: "Thank you for forwarding the question about the Marsala. Being a dessert, I definitely like to use sweet Marsala. I use dry Marsala for all sautéing dishes" I hope this helps you all. Here is day three, "A Virtual Tour of Italy", from Chef Giovanni Astronomo.

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We continue our journey Southward, today we are in Tuscany.

The word Tuscany brings to mind an image that has been glorified by poets and artists alike. It is a world whose clear and tranquil landscape matches the temperament of its people, which in turn is reflected by their speech, the purest in the Italian language. Anywhere else in Italy cooking may be said to be a passion, in Tuscany it is an art, as decorous and as formal as that of the great masters of the Florentine school.

Olive oil is the only luxury allowed in Tuscan cooking. Lucca, is the center of the olive oil making which it exports all over the world.

Both, at home and abroad, Tuscan cooking is well supported by its wines. The vine is cultivated throughout the region and every valley boasts its own specialty. Chianti has long become a legend, and synonymous of Tuscany. Other great wines are the Vernaccia di San Gimignano and the Brunello di Montalcino, the latter being my absolute favorite. So follow along on this culinary visit to beautiful Tuscany.

Today's menu

Strisce e Ceci (Ribbon Noodles with Chick Peas)
Costatine al Finocchio (Pork Chops with Fennel)
Funghi Trippati (Mushroom cooked Tripe Style)
Ciambelline Rustiche (Rustic Donuts)

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Strisce e Ceci

2 cups of chickpeas soaked overnight in water to cover
1/2 cup of Olive oil
1 onion thinly sliced
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
4 sprigs of flat Italian parsley, chopped
1 sprig rosemary, chopped
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1 1/2 lb of broken up fettuccine
Grated Parmesan to taste
Salt & pepper

Bring a large pan of unsalted water to a boil and simmer the chickpeas in it until tender. Heat the oil and gently sauté the onion and the garlic, add the parsley.

When it begins to look golden, add the tomato paste diluted with a little hot water.

Take about half of the chickpeas and put them through a food mill, or after cooling them slightly you can put them through a blender.

Return them to the pan with the remaining whole chickpeas and their cooking liquid.
Season with salt and plenty of fresh ground black pepper and simmer for about 1/2 hour longer.

Bring them to boil and add the broken up fettuccine and cook until al dente. Serve hot with grated Parmesan cheese.

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Costatine al Finocchio

4 pork chops
4 teaspoon tomato paste
2 tablespoon of oil
2 1/2 tablespoons of olive oil
1/2 cup of Marsala wine
1/2 cup dry red wine
2 cloves of garlic chopped finely
1/4 teaspoon of fennel seeds

Start by rinsing the chops and patting them dry. Season with salt and pepper. Dilute the tomato paste in a little hot water.

Heat the butter and the oil in a sauté pan and pan fry the chops for about 5 minutes on each side on moderate heat, browning them well on each side.

Re-season with salt and pepper and set aside on a heated or oven-proof dish and keep warm in oven.

To the same pan add the Marsala, the red wine, the garlic and the fennel seeds. Wait one minute and add the tomato paste.

Check for seasoning and reduce the sauce for about 2 minutes on medium high heat, pour over chops and serve hot.

Serves 4

With this dish I would pour a mildly acidic wine to balance out the sweetness of the fennel seeds and the Marsala, therefore a Sauvignon Blanc, White Burgundy (Louie Latour), Vernaccia or Orvieto Secco

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Funghi Trippati

1 1/2 lb. of baby bella or mixed wild mushroom
6 tablespoon of olive oil
2 cloves of garlic crushed with the blade of a knife
2 leaves of sage (If you can't find just do not use it. (Do Not Use dried it tastes like medicine)
1/2 teaspoon of dried chili flakes
1 teaspoon of oregano
A few sun dried tomatoes reconstituted in water (Optional)

Clean the mushroom and cut into medium slices. Heat the oil and gently sauté the crushed garlic until it begins to brown, remove it and discard.

Add the chili flakes, the sage and the mushroom, dilute the tomato paste with a little hot water and add it to the pan.

Season to taste with salt and pepper, if using, add the sundried tomatoes. Cook until it's not so watery, about 15 minutes on medium heat.

When the mushrooms are tender sprinkle with oregano and toss it one last time and serve alongside the pork chops.

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Ciambelline Rustiche

2 cups all purpose flour
5 tablespoon of sugar
Salt, a pinch
1/2 cup of white wine
1/2 teaspoon of anise seeds
1/2 cup olive oil
1 egg beaten
Oil for baking sheet

Sift the flour into a bowl and add the sugar, salt, wine, anise seeds and olive oil. Mix to a dough and knead it well.

Cover with clean towel and leave it to rest for 1 hour. Divide the dough in 20 pieces and shape into cylinders, the thickness of a finger and finally into rings.

Arrange them on a greased baking sheet, brush them with beaten egg and bake at 400F for 20 minutes.

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