Chef Guide for Chefs: Celebration of Autumn Foods
Chef2Chef Recipe Club - Volume 3 Issue 076 - October 14, 2002
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Hello Recipe Club,

Welcome to another week of great recipes. This week we are excited to present recipes from Terri Pischoff Wuerthner, CCP. You can read about her recent culinary award just below. Her recipe theme this week will be "Celebration of Autumn Foods, with tips and recipes"

Each day will focus on a different food with great tips and delightful recipes. Today's topic is wild mushrooms, something I'm very fond of.

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The Writers' Colony at Dairy Hollow in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, is where Terri was honored with the worlds first Culinary Fellowship. The Writers' Colony in Eurkea Springs is the first writers' colony in the world to meet the specific needs of food writers by renovating a writing suite to include a state-of-the-art dream kitchen designed by Deborah Krasner. This enables food writers to test recipes, as well as work on the creative and editorial aspects of their work-in-progress. Kitchen Aid, Renovation Style Magazine, Vieluxe and a host of other generous corporate and individual donors supplied the products, materials and inspiration to make this beautiful, fully outfitted kitchen a reality.

http://www.writerscolony.org
   
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MONDAY: WILD MUSHROOMS

Funny, friendly or formal looking...wild fungi, whether found in the woods or commercially cultivated, have a personality all their own. Curly chanterelles, smooth shiitakes and conical, comical morels may be tucked away under pine leaves or right out in the open, staring at you from the top of a fallen log. Many varieties of wild mushrooms are commercially cultivated and available year-round; others are dried and they, too, are available year-round. Any mushroom other than the white button is considered to be a wild mushroom.

Mushroom tips:
Dried mushrooms improve with age and have an intense flavor that many chefs prefer to fresh. They have a buttery richness and are simple to incorporate into your everyday cooking by reconstituting them in water and using them like fresh mushrooms.

To reconstitute dried mushrooms, rinse quickly, and then soak in hot water to cover for 30 minutes. Drain mushrooms through a coffee filter or cheesecloth, set in a fine mesh strainer. Reserve soaking liquid to use in soup, stock or as a vegetarian broth.

Grind dried mushrooms in a coffee grinder or spice mill, for an intensely-flavored powder to use in soup, stew, on sautéed chicken breasts or in any application where you want a mushroom flavor. To clean the grinder or mill between grinding mushrooms and coffee or spices, grind some white rice, then wipe out to remove leftover flavors and odors.

Use ground dried mushrooms to replace some of the flour in pasta dough, or to dust on vegetables before grilling.

Purchase foraged (i.e. gathered in the forest) wild mushrooms from a responsible gatherer and always buy mushrooms that are fresh looking and firm, not soft or slimy. The base should be relatively clean, not decomposed, and the mushrooms should have a good color and pleasant odor. There should not be unusual breaks in the caps or gills.

As mushrooms are porous and have a high moisture content, they are best cleaned with a mushroom brush, soft toothbrush or towel (a pointed knife can dislodge any debris from the cracks). If necessary, cut in half to dislodge dirt, then wipe with a moist paper towel or rinse under a soft stream of running water, and immediately pat dry. Store in a bowl lined with paper towels, or in brown paper bags.
Wild mushrooms should be cooked before using, except for enoki mushrooms.

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Shiitake-Mushroom Bread Pudding

Serves 6 as entrée, 8 as side dish

This vegetarian entrée would make even a devout carnivore happy. It could also be served as a side dish to accompany meat, poultry or game and would be a stunning addition to an autumn tailgate picnic.

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, cleaned and coarsely chopped into1-inch pieces
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon thyme
1 day-old, 8-ounce baguette, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
5 eggs
3 cups half and half
5 ounces chèvre, preferably chèvre with chives or herbs
1 tablespoon soft butter for coating the baking dish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Pour oil into a large skillet set over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring often (mushrooms will absorb the oil quickly, but keep stirring and lower heat as necessary to prevent burning). Mushrooms should be slightly caramelized, or golden brown.

Add garlic, parsley and thyme, reduce heat to lowest setting and cook 5 minutes longer. Remove from heat and add baguette cubes, salt and pepper, over-seasoning a bit as the liquid ingredients will dilute the flavor.

Place eggs, half and half, and chèvre in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Place the baguette cube-mushroom mixture into a 9" x 13" baking dish that has been coated with the butter. Pour liquid ingredients on top and allow to set for 15 minutes.

Bake in preheated oven for 1 hour. Pudding should be golden brown and have the look of a soufflé, but be set in the center.

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Cream of Chanterelle Mushroom Soup
Serves 4

Chanterelle mushrooms and half and half merge into a delicate, richly flavored soup that is ideal to serve to guests as it is elegant, yet can be made ahead. Only the quick and simple preparation is more appealing than the wonderful flavor.

4 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1 pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons flour
2 cups chicken broth
2 cups half and half
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
2 tablespoons Madeira
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Melt butter in a heavy saucepan set over medium heat. When foam from butter subsides, add onion and sauté for 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and sauté 5 minutes, stirring often.

Add flour and cook 1 minute, stirring constantly to coat onions and mushrooms with flour. Add broth, immediately bring to a boil and boil for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes.

Add half-and-half, salt and pepper and heat on low--just below a simmer--for 10 minutes. Add Madeira, stir, and serve sprinkled with parsley.

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Lost Yankee

Winter Morels. Why wait till spring when you can enjoy Morels any month of the year?

Winter Morels:

Frozen, bite sized wild Morel caps (no stems), in a low salt, no MSG, chicken, vegetable or beef stock. Recipe developed over five years with advice from two very fine restaurants. Designed to be a versatile Morel product allowing a chef to explore the world of Morel recipes.

http://html.chef2chef.net/goto.php?id=237

NOTE: I've had these delicious morels recently and they are every bit as good as this company claims them to be. All the aroma, flavor, texture of fresh picked wild Morels can now be had year round.

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Porcini Mushroom and Pork Ragout

Serves 6

This is wonderful served on polenta or pasta, or with a loaf of crusty Italian bread to use for soaking up the full-bodied sauce.

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
1 1/2 cups hot water
1/4 pound bacon, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 pounds boneless, fairly lean pork, cut in bite-sized cubes
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
3 large cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup reserved mushroom soaking liquid
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup half and half

Soak porcini mushrooms in the hot water for 30 minutes. Drain porcinis through a coffee filter or cheesecloth set over a mesh strainer in a bowl, to catch the liquid. Squeeze mushrooms dry, blot with paper towels and coarsely chop (reserve liquid for use later in this recipe).

Set a Dutch oven with a cover over medium-high heat. Add bacon and fry until crisp; remove bacon from Dutch oven and set aside for use later in this recipe.

Add the 1 tablespoon olive oil to the bacon drippings in the Dutch oven. Increase heat to high, and brown pork cubes until golden and crusty. Add browned pork and any juices to reserved bacon.

Add the 2 tablespoons olive oil to the Dutch oven; reduce heat to medium, and sauté the onion and garlic for 5 minutes, adjusting heat so garlic doesn't brown.

Add broth, the 1/2 cup reserved mushroom soaking liquid, vinegar, thyme, salt, pepper and reserved pork (with accumulated juices), bacon and mushrooms to Dutch oven. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and simmer for 1 hour and 45 minutes, or until most of the liquid is absorbed and meat is very tender. Reduce heat to very low, add the half and half and cook until heated through.

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Shopping Lists:

Olive oil
1 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms
2 cloves garlic
Fresh parsley
Thyme
1 day-old, 8-ounce baguette
Salt
White pepper
5 eggs
Half and half
5 ounces chèvre, preferably chèvre with chives or herbs
Butter

Butter
Onion
1 pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms
Flour
Chicken broth
Half and half
Salt
White pepper
Madeira
Fresh parsley

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
Bacon
Olive oil
2 pounds boneless, fairly lean pork
Olive oil
Onion
3 large cloves garlic
Chicken broth
Balsamic vinegar
Thyme
Salt
White pepper
Half and half

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