About Choux Pastry:
If the Choux Fits...
By Cynthia Bowan
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If the Choux Fits…
Once upon a time...well, many years ago, I discovered I could make cream puffs. This was fairly early on in my food careers. My first lesson came from my momma, but as silly as it seems, that was the only time I ever saw her making cream puffs.
She did stress that you cannot double the cream puff dough. There are some recipes you just cannot do this with, and this temperamental dough was such that it would not work if you try to make more than the recipe calls for. Well, I found out that you can double a recipe, but the thing that can make cream puffs fail is humidity, outside as well as in your kitchen.
But be that as it may, I fell in love with cream puffs. I learned to make small ones, dessert ones, cream puffs filled with chicken salad, or a blue cheese mixture. I saw pictures in various food magazines of glorious desserts made with the same dough. I had no clue that it was called choux pastry, something beyond those first cream puffs.
Then, many years later, there came a bitter cold January when my husband Merrill and I flew to the Dominican Republic on an eye/vision medical mission. We spent two weeks on the North Coast where Merrill did eye examinations and I worked in the glasses
area for dispensing. Nearby, Puerto Plata was just beginning to be a tourist spot. The last couple of days were spent in Santo Domingo, where we had dinner with the other volunteers at Lina's Restaurant, then the #2 restaurant in the world.
This restaurant is named after the famous chef Lina Aguado, once the personal chef of dictator Rafael Trujillo. Lina opened her own pastry shop and restaurant after her time working for Trujillo was through, and it became an immediate success. That meal cost us about $15 U.S. dollars, and I can remember every bit of it as though we had just been there. Merrill had baked fresh sea bass with French fries. I had Tournedos Rossini. Salad was tossed at our table. Then came dessert.
There was a tree in the middle of the room with a table built around it that was covered in a wide variety of desserts. The waiters pushed two trolleys of more desserts up to the table. We were assured that if we did not see what we wanted, the chef would make it for us. Merrill had fresh strawberries with zabaglione sauce and whipped cream. I choose Gateau St. Honorine, mainly because of its glorious appearance. Filled choux pastry in a ring, with golden spun sugar over the top…oh, yes…
Now I
know that this simple dough can not only end up as cream puffs but profiteroles, Paris Brest (a huge giant choux pastry shell filled with vanilla pastry crème and cream and chocolate sauce drizzled over the entire thing, fritters and even Gougere Bread (bread made with cream puff pastry and cheese. For Christmas, I make what we jokingly call an "edible wreath", using filled cream puffs to decorate a wreath made of parsley…
This dough lends itself to so many wonderful dishes, that there is something that will suit everyone and make a party or a luncheon even more special. So with that, here are some recipes for you to Enjoy! and hopefully, make your holiday just a little bit more special. As always, CYH - consider yourself hugged, and may you have the merriest Christmas, happiest Hanukkah, and the most fantastic New Year ever - and many more of each of them as well.
Basic Cream Puffs
Serves: 8
1 cup water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
For filling:
2 cups whipping cream
1/2 cup confectioner's sugar
1 tablespoon instant vanilla or chocolate pudding
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bring butter, sugar and water to a boil in a saucepan. When boiling, remove from heat and add all the flour in at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until well blended. Return to heat and stir until mixture forms a "mass" and a light doughy film forms on the bottom of the pot. Remove from heat and add the eggs one by one, stirring well after each addition.
Using a pastry bag fitted with a plain tube, pipe the equivalent of 2 tablespoons of the filling directly onto a baking sheet. Smooth the top of each puff with a pastry brush dipped in water. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake for 10 minutes more until puffs are golden and dry. Remove puffs from oven and pierce each one with a sharp knife to allow the steam to escape.
To fill, slice
puffs in half and pipe or spoon filling of choice into the hole in the center. Once they are filled, your puffs must be kept in the fridge or freezer. It is best to fill immediately prior to serving to ensure a nice crisp and flaky exterior.
Fillings:
Sweetened Whipped Cream
1-cup heavy/whipping cream
2 Tablespoon confectioners sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
With an electric mixer, begin to beat the cream at a medium/high speed. Once it is frothy, add sugar and vanilla. Beat to stiff peaks.
Filling II: Whip the cream with sugar and instant vanilla or chocolate pudding until stiff. Fill the puffs with cream using a pastry bag fitted with a small plain tube. Other fillings can be used (ice cream, chocolate or vanilla pudding).
Éclairs
For the choux pastry dough:
1 cup water
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
5 eggs
For the Filling: Pastry Cream (recipe below)
For the chocolate glaze:
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup light corn syrup
1/2 cup sugar
4 1/2 ounces semi-sweet chocolate, finely chopped
Preheat oven to 425F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Make the pastry cream and refrigerate.
Heat the water, salt, sugar and butter until the butter melts. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Immediately add the flour and stir quickly with a wooden spoon, until smooth. Set the mixture over low heat and stir constantly for 4 minutes. Remove and allow mixture to cool for a few minutes. Add 1 egg and beat it thoroughly into the mixture. Add remaining eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.
With pastry bag fitted with 1/2-inch tip, pipe thick fingers of dough about 3-inches long. Brush with egg glaze. Dip a fork in water and lightly mark each finger with crosswise lines. Bake about 10 minutes
at 425 and then reduce the heat to 350°F. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Turn off the oven and prop the oven door open slightly. Allow the éclairs to stay in the oven for about 15 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack. If serving immediately, fill while they are still warm. If making ahead, insert a skewer into one end of the éclairs and move it around to expand the opening for the pastry cream.
To fill: Stir the chilled pastry cream to soften. Fit the pastry bag with a filling tip (Ateco#230) and fill with the cream. Insert the tip in one end of the éclair, fill then glaze.
For the glaze: Combine the water, corn syrup and sugar in a small saucepan and stir over med-high heat until the sugar is dissolved. Bring the mixture to a boil; washing down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush. As soon as it has begun to boil, remove from heat and stir in the chocolate. Let stand for 2 minutes, stirring until smooth. Transfer to a shallow bowl or rimmed plate.
To glaze the éclairs: Dip the top of the filled éclairs into the glaze; allow the excess to drip off before turning it back over. Transfer to a wire rack to allow the glaze to set. To serve: They are best served the day they are made. They may be stored for
one day in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Pastry Cream
Makes about 4 cups.
6 large egg yolks
1 large egg
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Set aside a rimmed baking sheet for cooling the pastry cream. Mix together the egg yolks, egg and 2 tablespoons of the sugar. Add the cornstarch and flour to the egg mixture and using a whisk, mix until smooth and pale yellow. Set aside.
Combine the milk and remaining 3/4 cup of sugar in a saucepan. Set it over med-high heat and stir until the milk begins to steam. Whisking constantly, add half of the hot milk to the egg yolk mixture and stir until smooth. Pour the combined mixture back into the saucepan and bring to a boil, whisking rapidly to prevent any scorching. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla.
Transfer the pastry cream to the baking sheet and spread in a thin layer. Cover the entire surface with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap onto the surface of the cream. Transfer to the refrigerator and allow cream to chill, about 15
minutes before using.
To store: The cream may be used after it has chilled. If not using immediately, transfer the mixture to an airtight container. It may be stored up to 3 days before using.
Cheese Puffs
1cup water
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 eggs
8 ounces Roquefort cheese
8 ounces cream cheese
1/2 cup heavy cream
In a saucepan, heat water, butter, and salt, until butter melts, and water comes to a boil. Stir in flour all at once. Mix with a wooden spoon until dough cleans the sides of the pan.
Beat in eggs, one at the time, beating dough until smooth after each addition.
Spoon dough into a pastry bag fitted with a plain pastry tube. Pipe small mounts on a baking sheet. Bake in preheated oven at 425 F. for 20 to 25 minutes or until puffed and browned. Prick shells with a toothpick to allow steam to escape. Bake 2 more minutes. Combine cheeses and beat in the cream. Cut the top off puffs and stuff with cheese. Makes about 24.
Gorgonzola and Rosemary Cream Puffs
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary
1/8 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper
2 eggs
1 cup shredded gorgonzola cheese
2 tablespoons chopped pistachio nuts
Heat oven to 425 degrees. Spray large cookie sheet with cooking spray. Heat water and butter to boiling over medium heat. Add flour, salt, rosemary and pepper all at once, stirring constantly until mixture forms a ball. Remove from heat. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating with electric mixer on medium speed until mixture is well blended.
Drop mixture by heaping teaspoonfuls about 2 inches apart onto cookie sheet. Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until golden. Cool 5 minutes. Gently press center of each puff with tip of spoon to make slight indentation. Sprinkle with cheese and nuts. Bake until cheese is melted. Makes: about 16 appetizers
Edible Wreath
foam ring
fresh parsley bunches
foil
tape
toothpicks
bow
cream puffs (see recipe)
radish roses
cheese stars
To assemble: wash and dry parsley well; MUST be dry. Cover a Styrofoam ring
with foil. Place on serving dish. Take some small bunches of parsley, tape them to
the ring. Place bunches on top of each other, working your way around the ring,
to cover top for "greens" on the wreath.
Stagger toothpicks around the wreath, place radishes (cut like flowers), stars
(use a small canapé cutter to cut stars from blocks of cheese, cut 1/4" thick or
so) and cream puffs on these, refilling the wreath as needed.
Cream Puffs
2/3 cup butter
1 1/2 cup flour
1 1/2 cup water
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 eggs
Heat water and butter in saucepan until boiling. Stir in flour and salt, beat until dough forms a ball and pulls off the sides of the pan. Remove from heat, beat in eggs, one at a time. Beat until all is incorporated. Drop by teaspoonfuls on greased baking sheet, or use a pastry bag and plain tip. Bake at 400F., for 30 minutes. Cool on wire rack. Split and fill. Makes about 60 mini puffs.
Filling:
8 oz. cream cheese, softened
1/4-cup bleu cheese, softened
1 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
Place all ingredients in food processor; blend well. Can also use chicken salad...
By Cynthia Bowan
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Basic Cream Puffs | Éclairs | Pastry Cream | Cheese Puffs
Gorgonzola and Rosemary Cream Puffs | Edible Wreath | Cream Puffs
