About Regional Cooking
By Cynthia Bowan
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I've been back down in North Carolina now for almost four days. Most of the time, it's been sunny, warm (mid to high 70's), and sheer heaven. It seemed that every time I turned around up in Pittsburgh, we had snow - with or without sleet, it didn't matter. The skies were more gray than anything. Even when my husband drove me to the airport Saturday morning, the snow was coming down hard enough to make it almost impossible to see through.
Excluding the Battle Between the States (Southern version) or if you wish, The Civil War (the Yankee version), it seems there are other differences which have existed. My father was a Yankee who fell in love with the beautiful Southern girl, thanks to her older sister who introduced them. Unfortunately, after the war (WW II, that is, not the previously mentioned conflict), they moved up North near his family so he could get a job.
In time, they had myself, my sister Susan (whom I teasingly call, Susan the Perfect, because she is - as well as being a size 5 to my - oh, forget
that <GBG>), and our brother Joe. Momma was a very good cook, but not that adventuresome, so it is strange to think that all three of her children are devout foodies…Joe and I more so than Sue, but she is no slouch in the kitchen, I assure you.
But I digress. Our parents argued a lot, over many things, big or small. At one such time, Dad was heard to say that the Civil War had never ended, just that our family kept it going. Well, they may have argued, but our parents were deeply in love. After Momma passed away, it was as though the spark left Dad…(unless we dared to bring up the subject of politics!)
Now, there were two obvious sides to the way food was cooked in this situation. Of necessity and of course, ethnic backgrounds, Pennsylvania food was heavier, hearty, bone-warming stews and soups, chicken and dumplings (one of the major skirmishes in the war), and whole grain breads (yet another set-to). But, what about South Carolina food? Definitely lighter for the most part - fried chicken or fish, so tender, pork chops and gravy, ham and red-eye gravy, chicken with flat dumplings (see?) and quick breads (another point…). One grandmother made dill pickles and bread and butter pickles, the other made chow-chow and sweet pickles in nice sized chunks (dishpan pickles, so-named because that's where she
mixed them)…and so on and so on.
Granted, regional cooking is just that. You use what is available to you, or in your garden, and usually, what your family made for generations before you…and their neighbors and friends. Regional differences show up greatly in breads, for example. Up North, the primary flour is a winter wheat; down South, it is a softer spring wheat. Now we can use the winter wheat flour to make regular bread, artisan and quick breads. But the quick breads can be tricky for us, but oh, not for Southerners. Some folk claim the difference is the water, but I've read up on the subject, and it is the wheat.
I love artisan breads, free-formed and baked in the oven on a stone, I love all the wonderful quick breads, with an almost endless variety, mixing fruits and nuts and various other "add-ins". I love oatmeal bread and I love biscuits - what Southern breakfast would have whole wheat or rye toast instead of biscuits with their grits, eggs, ham and red-eye gravy?
For me, there is no battle line drawn, even with my obviously Yankee husband. Fortunately, my Southern grandmother fell in love with Merrill also, and adored his teasing and his jokes, and I think, the fact that he loved her cooking helped a bit.
I would give just about
anything to sit at her table again, or at my other Grandmother's, to have some of their wonderful dishes again. To let my mother know that my cooking reflects hers as well as theirs, with some of my aunts, my mother-in-law's and my friends thrown it…mixed up with my ideas and what I've learned along the way from Chef Billy Sy, a dear friend, and others who have contributed to the melting pot of my kitchen. My life, and I hope, the life of those around me, have also benefited from these marvelous life experiences in the kitchens of many folks I have loved.
So now, I share some of this with you. You can check past columns for some of these (
August 2004, Earth bread;
March 2002, Southern biscuits made with self-rising flour). Or you can try the following. May you Enjoy it all! And as always, CYH - consider yourself hugged!
This was my Grandmother Mitchell's recipe for butter mints. Wonderful any time of year, but they make a pretty gift when given in a nice dish or glass container.
Mammy's Butter Mints
1 lb. confectioner's sugar
1 stick butter, room temperature
mint flavoring to taste
food coloring
Knead sugar and butter together. Add flavoring, a little at a time. Tint the entire recipe as desired - one certain color, or divide recipe and make different colors. Keep the color light and pastel. Dark colors do not work well. Shape as desired, using candy molds, or rolling in thin logs, and slicing into small "pillows" (that is how she would make them). Allow to dry on waxed paper.
Orange Slice Bread
1 lb. orange slice candy
4 c. flour
2 sticks butter or margarine (1/2 lb.)
2 c. sugar
1/2 c. buttermilk
1 c. chopped dates
2 c. chopped nuts
4 eggs
1 tsp. baking soda
Slice or chop orange slice candy into 1 c. flour. Add dates and nuts; stir well. Set aside.
Cream butter and sugar; add eggs and cream well. Sift soda with flour; add to creamed mixture alternately with buttermilk. Add candy mixture last. Grease loaf pans. Line bottom with wax paper. Bake at 300F, 1 hour. Makes 2 loaves.
Note: This recipe came to me from my late aunt, Vivian Mitchell Rogers, many years ago.
Miz Hollie's Banana Bread
1 c. sugar
1/2 c. shortening (melted)
2 eggs
2 T. sour cream
3 very ripe bananas (the riper the better)
2 c. flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. baking powder
1/8 tsp. salt
Mix all dry ingredients. Beat eggs. Add sour cream to eggs. Mix into dry ingredients. Add bananas and shortening. Pour into greased loaf pan. Bake at 325F for an hour(or so). Cool briefly, remove from pan and cool completely before slicing.
This was my Grandmother's recipe...
Mitchell's Macaroni and Cheese
1 lb. box elbow macaroni
1 lb. mild Cheddar cheese, grated
1/2 c. margarine, melted
6 eggs
2 13-oz. cans evaporated milk
salt and pepper to taste
Cook macaroni in boiling salted water according to package directions. Drain well and dump into a big bowl. Add grated cheese, reserving 1/2 c. to sprinkle on top. Stir in cheese until melted. Stir in margarine and eggs; stir well to distribute evenly. Add milk. Mixture will be fairly liquid. Pour into 13x9" pan, sprinkle with reserved cheese on top. Bake at 350F, for 45 minutes, until set. Serves 8.
Note: I cut the recipe in half for my smaller family, and it was worked out well…never have leftovers. <GBG>
Bowan's Rice Pudding
This is an old, excellent recipe...
1 qt. milk
1/2 c. raw rice
1/2 c. sugar
pinch of salt
1/2 tsp.
vanilla
nutmeg
Cook rice and milk in double boiler until rice is tender. Pour into casserole. Mix in sugar, salt and vanilla. Sprinkle generously with nutmeg. Bake at 350F., 45 minutes. Reduce heat to 300F and bake 15-20 minutes longer. Pudding should be just a little soupy; it thickens as it cools. Makes 6-8 servings.
Note: I usually add 1/2 c. or more golden raisins to the rice-milk step.
Old Fashioned Grits and Cheese Soufflé
1 c. grits (not instant)
1 c. shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
1/4 c. milk
4 eggs, well beaten
1/2 tsp. baking powder
Cook grits according to pkg. Directions. Thoroughly mix with remaining ingredients and pour into a greased 1 1/2 qt. casserole. Bake at 400F, for about 30 minutes. Serves 4-6.
Mom Bowan's Oatmeal Cake
1 c. oats
1 1/2 c. boiling water
1 stick butter
1 c. granulated sugar
1 c. light brown sugar, packed
2 eggs
1 1/2 c. flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 c. chopped nuts
Topping:
1/2 c. light brown sugar, packed
6 T. butter
1/3 c. canned milk
1 tsp. vanilla
1/2 c. chopped nuts
1 c. coconut
Place sugar, butter, milk and vanilla in saucepan. Stir in nuts and coconut. Cook over medium-low heat until butter is melted and sugar dissolved. Cook 2 minutes, then spread while hot over warm cake.
Place oats in small bowl; pour boiling water over them. Set aside to cool.
Cream butter and both sugars with eggs. Add moistened oats and dry ingredients, mixing well. Stir in nuts. Place batter in a 13x9" baking dish; bake at 350F., 35-40 minutes.
By Cynthia Bowan
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Butter Mints |
Orange Slice Bread |
Banana Bread |
Macaroni and Cheese
Rice Pudding |
Old Fashioned Grits and Cheese Soufflé |
Oatmeal Cake
