Asparagus and Artichokes
Seem To Mean Spring...
By Cynthia Bowan
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I am more than ready for Spring to show up. We had a couple days of warm weather-teasing last week, reaching into the low 70's. But any hopes we had of continuing that way were completely dashed by the weekend, with snow once again covering everything.
It was a slight shock to see my sunshine-yellow forsythia frosted white. My poor hyacinths and daffodils were bending under the heavy blanket. This morning, I watched as we experienced two snow squalls - there is no other word for the sudden fierce attack. But as the morning goes on, I am gratified to see the temperature creeping up, almost as though it is afraid to do so. But 50 degrees is not bad - it is not what I want, but it beats 29...
My flower and seed catalogs have well worn pages by now. I look out the windows, and see several projects for my "honeydew" list...you know what that is, don't you? It's when a woman turns to her husband and says, honey, do this...and honey, you need to do that... and somewhere along the line, things do get done.
But at this time of year, I also think about fresh vegetables. There is nothing so wonderful as a tomato fresh off the vine. Or fresh sweet, tender pea pods, or green onions, and yes, asparagus.
Asparagus and artichokes seem to mean Spring to me, much in the way tomatoes and corn mean summer. But not everyone loves asparagus. Take our Number two son, Mark David, for example. Mark may be in his 30's, but he still dislikes asparagus.
For years, I have had a few asparagus plants in the back yard. Well, several years ago, a tornado came up from the Allegheny River, straight up Hulton Road, passing in between our house and the one on the corner. When it went by, it took out two sycamore trees in the side yard. They came down, one on the back side of our house and the other on the side closest to the side yard, making a V-shape, but not causing a great deal of damage.
However, Mark seemed to be very upset. When I pointed out that we only had a small bit of roof to fix and there was no real problems, he said "Yes, there is. The tree missed the asparagus."
Well, every spring I bring out asparagus in various forms. I delight in every bite. The one time (again, when the children were younger), I served it stir-fried. Diagonal slices were sautéed in a little butter, and topped with grated Asiago-Romano cheese in this attempt. The dish was passed around the table, they grudgingly ate one bite...and they all let me know it was not a favorite.
The next day, I took the leftover asparagus, plus some more I had, added it all to a good chicken broth with a little bit of onion. When the vegetables were tender, I pureed everything in the food processor. Back into a clean pot, reheated, more butter and some half-and-half. I served them "Spring Vegetable Chowder".
The bowls were cleaned up - not a drop left.
What does that go to prove? If one disguises a vegetable enough, kids will eat it? Or is it that the right name means everything?
Oh, and by the way, I did not tell them what I had done until years later. I thought it was funny, and of course, they were not amused.
The other vegetable I love is an artichoke. The first time Merrill and I ever ate an artichoke, I had taken two cookbooks - Julia Child's French Chef and the Fannie Farmer's - from the library. I followed directions, cooked the artichokes up and served them with a bowl of melted butter. Merrill and I sat at the table, with a pile of napkins, the artichokes and butter - and read how to eat them from the book. Neither of our families had ever had an artichoke in their kitchen, much less ate them.
As time went on, we introduced each of our five children to the art of artichokes. They became an instant favorite. It might have been the ceremony involved - children love ceremony - tearing off the outer leaves, dipping them into the butter. But love them they did, so much, that they begged me to buy more.
One Sunday morning, our pastor had all the children come forward for the usual children's sermon. He asked "What is your favorite food" to start things off. Doug and Mark's hands went up immediately. So the poor pastor, expecting to hear candy, cereal, fruit, hamburgers or some such stuff, absolutely lost it and laughed along with the rest of the congregation, when both boys yelled out "ARTICHOKES"!
Our children are unique. They have sampled and loved many dishes that other families do not eat. They have friends from other countries who have introduced them to their native dishes, and in return, have done the same for those friends. So I think my children are just a little bit richer for the culinary adventures they have had.
Oh, and by the way, everyone except Mark now eats asparagus. But if that is the only thing he does not care for, then I would say I have raised him right. <G>
So, since Spring is here, snow notwithstanding, I offer you some of my/our favorite vegetable dishes. May you Enjoy! them all, and CYH - consider yourself hugged.
Meyer Lemon Aioli
2 garlic clove
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg yolk
1 Meyer lemon, zested and juiced
1 cup olive oil
In a mortar, pound the garlic and salt to form a paste. Stir in the egg
yolk, lemon zest, and juice until integrated. Add the olive oil in a
slow trickle to the side of the mortar until completely combined.
Serve this with artichokes, steamed asparagus, vegetables...in fact, it is good on everything except ice cream, as a friend told me. You can use regular lemons if Meyer lemons are not available.
Asparagus Pasta
1 lb. fresh asparagus or 1 pkg. frozen asparagus spears
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 c. heavy or whipping cream
1/2 lb. (3 c.) cavatelli or other macaroni, uncooked
2 T. butter
1/2 c. (3 oz) grated Parmesan cheese
fresh ground pepper
Wash and trim asparagus. Cut stalks crosswise into thirds. In large skillet,
bring 1" of water to boil. Add salt and asparagus. Bring to boil again. Cover
and cook until tender crisp, about 5 minutes. Drain and set aside. Cook pasta
according to pkg. directions and drain.
Combine cream and butter in same saucepan. Boil until slightly thickened,
about 3 minutes. Add pasta, asparagus and half the cheese. Serve sprinkle with
remaining cheese and pepper, if desired.
Asparagus With Toasted Nuts and Balsamic Vinaigrette
Serves 4.
2 lb. fresh asparagus
1/4 c. unsalted butter
1/4 c. olive oil
3/4 c. toasted slivered almonds or pine nuts
1/3 c. balsamic vinegar or to taste
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Trim asparagus stalks to the same length. Bring about 2" salted water to boil
in a large frying pan; lay the asparagus in the pan and cook, uncovered, until
tender-crisp (3 -5 minutes). Remove asparagus and plunge it into cold water,
then drain and pat dry. Let cool to room temperature or follow vinaigrette
instructions and serve at once.
To prepare vinaigrette, heat butter and oil in a large sauté pan. Add the nuts
and stir until hot. Add balsamic vinegar and when bubbly pour over the
asparagus. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
Veal Oscar/Oskar is simply veal sautéed, then topped with lump crab meat and Bernaise sauce(recipe follows). Steamed asparagus can be used either as a garnish or you can put it on top of the crab before drizzling the Bernaise on top.
However, I have had this dish made with a grilled yellow tuna steak at Monterey Bay Restaurant, Mt. Washington, across from Pittsburgh...awesome!!! This recipe is the best Bernaise recipe, I think...
Bernaise Sauce (James Beard American Cookery)
1/2 c. white wine
1 T. finely chopped shallots or scallions
1 or 2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon
3 or 4 egg yolks
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 c. butter
Combine wine, shallots and tarragon. Cook until it is reduced to a mere glaze.
Combine the glaze with the eggs and salt in blender or food processor. Heat butter till
bubbling hot. Pulse processor to mix ingredients and then turn on again and gradually pour in melted butter in steady stream until sauce thickens. Additional chopped tarragon and parsley may be added.
Stuffed Artichoke Recipe
For each artichoke use:
1 clove garlic
4 T. bread crumbs (preferably homemade)
2 T. freshly grated Parmesan
2 T. fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley
Process these ingredients in food processor.
Clip the leaves of the artichoke and scoop out the choke with a teaspoon.
Spread out the leaves and drop in as much filling as possible. Spoon a large
amount (2-3 tablespoons) into center. Cook these in a pressure cooker for
about 10 minutes. But you also can steam them by any device, approx. 45 min.
They also can be cooked in a microwave, wrapped tightly in plastic on high for
7-8 min. (Microwaving will make the artichokes not quite as tender and the
flavors don't penetrate as well, but still good.) Another suggestion is to fry
some ground sausage, drain it well, and add to the bread crumb mixture.
By Cynthia Bowan
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Meyer Lemon Aioli | Asparagus Pasta | Stuffed Artichoke Recipe
Asparagus With Toasted Nuts and Balsamic Vinaigrette | Béarnaise Sauce
